Thursday, January 27, 2011

Arequipa, Arequipa, Arequipa


We've spent a few days here, so far, in Arequipa and we just love the atmosphere. The so-called "White City" (La Cuidad Blanca) is white for a number of reasons. According to all of the tour books, its because most of the buildings are built with a stone called sillar that is mined in volcanic areas and is made of compressed volcanic ash. I've been told it is impossible to paint, so all of the buildings constructed with it are white. Also, because the city is constantly hit by small and large earthquakes, there are very few buildings in the city above 3 stories (most are just 2). In places where you find more than 3 stories, there is a beautiful view.

The other reason this city is known as the White City we heard from our guide in the Conven. She told us that the city is named the white city for all of the white people who lived here after the Spanish created the city. That the city got its nickname long before they ever started using the sillar stones for buildings. In fact, she told us, there is not a single recorded building or other structure that the indigineous ever used the sillar as a building material. It was discovered by the Spanish and they used it for all of the buildings they built.

The city is on the high plains and abuts the Andes. It sits at 2380m (7808') with towerin mountains within a couple of hours to the base. El Misti 5822m (19,101') is an active volcano that last erupted in 1985. The very top of the moutain, for the week we've been here, has not been clear of clouds. It almost seems like something could be brewing over there right now. The other mountain is Chachani 6,095m (19,997'). A hulking mountain refered to in indiginous folk tales as the wife of Misti. (In between them is a small volcano in the exact shape of Misti that is supposed to be their child - we haven't seen it yet, it hasn't been clear enough for us).

Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru. They have over a million people that live in this area. From what I've learned of their history, they have several times considered dividing themselves from Lima - to the point that at one point they designed their own money and passports. The city is knows for its diverse society and for some really yummy cooking. My mouth and belly have never been so happy to have returned to Peru. The food here is fantastic!

We have wandered the streets and the guy at the tourist office gave us a couple of little urban neighborhoods to check out. These areas are super quiet, away from the noisy streets of the city - but just steps away from the main square and other bustling avenues. All of them have old metal lampposts and huge urns on their sides with flowers everywhere. I had to keep turning back to the street, and seeing the constant flow of people and cars just past the stairs to believe I was really in the middle of a big city.

I'm trying really hard not to purchase more stuff. :) It's not going to fit in my suitcase anyway, so I'm not sure why its so difficult. We are just days away from returning to Cusco and moving in to our new apartment. I'm ready, I think, to settle down for a while. We'll see, I guess.

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