Coylloriti - Snow Star Festival

I was honored to travel with Winn and friends Elder and Sandro from Ollantaytambo to the festival of Coyllority, the largest gathering of indigeonous people in S. America, and religious pilgramidge that for some takes more than several days by foot.  We took the easy route, leaving Cusco at 2am by taxi and driving 3 long hours on smooth but very windy mountainous roads to the beginning of our hike, about 30 minutes beyond the town of Ocongate.  A temporary city to welcome the more than 80,000 travelers offered us sopa de gallina (5am breakfast), a pack horse with and firewood.  The sun was just comming up as we started up the valley and it was cold, cold, cold - wearing every bit of clothing I brought, 3 layers on my legs, 4 on chest, 2 hats, gloves and a scarf and I was still cold.  Walking along side the locals in bare feet and tire sandals with their large bundles didn't make me feel warmer.  Luckily the hike wasn't that strenous because the altitude and lack of sleep was really taxing.  Twelve crosses were placed evenly along the 8km walk and there was always a good group gathered at each.  Along the way we were followed or led by dance troupes and musicians, performing the entire way.  At one point I looked up to a trail hundreds of feet above ours to the sound of a full brass band, hiking and playing - amazing.  By 8am the sun rose above the mountains and by 9am we arived in Coyllority, set in a tight valley with glaciers perched above.


 I have been to some large festivals but this one takes the cake.  In addition to the main route in, I could spot 4 other trails that funneled people from other directions and communties into the valley.  Since we were above the tree line (way above) everything was visible until erased by the distance, reminding me how large these mountains are and that my depth perception remains skewed.  This was the last full day of a six day event that would end tomorrow morning with a benediction, and everything was in full swing.  Temporary restaurants with indoor seating served everything from trout to llama, always with potatoes and hot tea.  Vendors were hawking trinkets, souvenirs and alasitas, miniatures of everything from cars, money, diplomas to real estate deeds.  Theses alasitas are then blessed during a small ceremony involving wine and fire crackers.  I couldn't help purchasing a mini briefcase full of money, visas and plane tickets - for future travel.
The music and dancing never stopped.  I wake often when camping on the ground and never was there a moment of respite for the many troupes, it sounded the same at 3am as it did at 3pm.  At 4am all of the troupes marched and danced to one of the 3 glaciers above the valley, returning in a spectacular procession to the cathedral at 10am the next morning for mass.  Shortly after, the benediction marked the end of the festivities and the packing, dismanteling and hiking down the valley began.  We hired another horse and joined the mass exodus.